tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:forum-1Nabble - MyMorbic Sail-&-Oar Dinghy UK Network2024-03-29T04:57:09ZPrimarily for the enjoyment and benefit of
<br/>Builders and Owners of the Morbic 12 Sail-&-Oar Dinghy
<br/>Morbic-related Questions and Ideas
<br/><br/><h2><a href="https://mymorbic.uk/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" link="external">(For the MyMorbic UK website click here)</a></h2>tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-594A Morbic in Scotland2024-03-16T09:11:10Z2024-03-16T09:11:10ZDavid Atkinson
<b>A trip to gather ideas</b><br/><br/>I had reached the stage in my build where I had turned the hull for the first time and now had to make choices as to how to fit the internals. I had scoured the forum and internet to see what others had done to help me, there was a lot of good ideas and I thought the best way to help me reach a decision was to try and see a good selection of boats and more importantly to meet other owners to hear their thoughts.
<br/><br/>To this end I contacted several owners by email through the forum and was able to set up a trip to meet them driving from Scotland to the Chichester area with a few stops on the way. Thanks to Paul W for helping me with this planning.
<br/><br/>First of all, I would like to thank all those I met for generously sharing their time and advice. I rapidly came to the conclusion that all Morbic owners are nice people. The icing on the cake for me was the opportunity to sail with Graham on Sistership in Chichester harbour. A great opportunity and one that thankfully confirmed that I had started to build the correct dinghy.
<br/><br/>During my trip I saw 8 dinghies (or 8 1/4 if you include Mike’s quarter scale model!), Aura, Bodicca, Half-moon, Proteus, Sistership and Swefn with a further 2 still being built. There was a mix of builds, one professional build, several using Alec Jordan’s kit, one using CNC’d parts and one hand made but in all cases the standard of build and finish was very high. All a real credit to their builder s and the many hours they must have spent building their boats.
<br/><br/>There was a fair range between those that had been built 100% to plan and those who had been modified to suit the owner’s interests and requirements.
<br/><br/>The only common issues that were raised were the construction of the rudder and the boom jaw. There have been reports of problems with the strength of the rudder cheek fixings and most people have added bolts or screws to reinforce the assembly.
<br/><br/>I don’t think I saw any examples where the boom jaw had been used and a rope loop or bleater was used in its place.
<br/><br/>There was a consensus that the buoyancy chambers should not be filled with foam, and some people used empty bottles or plastic balls in the chambers in case the chamber was ruptured.
<br/><br/>There wasn’t strong support for the fixed foot rests and these were absent or replaced by a removable foot rest. Only one person had made a set of oars to Vivier’s design and several people commented that their oars were a bit short but that storing and handling longer oars were difficult. Again most people had used oarlocks rather than thole pins.
<br/><br/>One development in some of the boats was the addition of an extra floor locker, originating on Port-na-Storm’s Sistership. These give extra stowage and an alternative lower seat to the forward thwart.
<br/><br/>Of the 8 dinghies I saw the majority (6) were built for lug sail with only two built to allow sailing as a sloop or lug.
<br/><br/>I saw a few variations in rigging with one boat using a rope traveller and the rest using a block on the centre board case for the main sheet. Some people had added lazyjacks and I saw how these made things easier when raising and lowering the main sail.
<br/><br/>Again with finishing there were differing views on the use of two part finishes, which were felt to provide a hard finish better able to stand up to day to day knocks but were more difficult to touch up in case of damage. Several people advocated the use of oil rather than varnish for the brightwork.
<br/><br/>Finally there was a multitude of small details that people had adopted including, adding floorboards (a lot of work to add and presented a snagging point for the main sheet), slats on the seating (look good but again a lot of work with cushions an alternative idea), small scuppers at the aft corners above the seating to drain water that collects there, additional tie off points for fenders etc.
<br/><br/>In conclusion, my thoughts are to finish my Morbic as a balanced lug for simplicity, I will install the forward thwart as the design but fix it with screws in case I decide to change the layout in the future. I am actively considering using an open mast partner (as in the sloop design) to make it easier to raise and lower the mast. There are also several detailed ideas I saw that I may incorporate depending on how time and motivation go.
<br/><br/>I had a very enjoyable time meeting and discussing things with all the people I met and thanks to them again.
<br/><br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-183Do you pump or bail?2021-04-11T01:02:24Z2021-04-11T01:02:24ZPaulW
A capsize can focus the mind.
<br/>Do you have a bilge pump in your Morbic, or other dinghy?
<br/>Where is it mounted?
<br/>Where is the suction point?
<br/>Is it electric or manual?
<br/>Do you recommend anything in particular? (Or to avoid?)
<br/>Any other thoughts?
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-577Outboard model2023-12-27T15:47:24Z2023-12-27T15:47:24ZNigel McC
I do have an 2hp Suzuki outboard ... though I don't usually us it on my Morbic – Taranui. I can foresee circumstances when I will use a motor, but it is a short shaft (15") so I will have to take off the rudder for the prop to submerge.
<br/>Does anyone use an outboard? If so, what model, and shaft length? And if a short shaft, how do you lower the attachment clamp?
<br/>Of is it easier to give up and buy a long shaft (20")?
<br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-578Handicap / Rating for Morbics?2024-01-03T02:13:11Z2024-01-03T02:13:11ZPaulW
Does anyone race their Morbic or know if there is a PY* or other racing handicap for them?
<br/><br/>Reading Sailing Club rated Proteus at PY 1400 (seems a bit harsh?).
<br/>Falmouth Classics dimensionally calculated OGA (TCHF) handicap for Proteus 0.7467.
<br/>There doesn't seem to be anything definitive on RYA website. Unsurprising? Morbic is probably not considered a racer!
<br/><br/>*(PY = <a href="https://www.rya.org.uk/racing/technical/handicap-systems" target=blank rel="nofollow" link="external">Portsmouth Yardstick</a>)
<br/><br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-576Morbic 12 building jig2023-12-15T07:43:23Z2023-12-15T07:43:23ZJon Dykes
Hi All
<br/><br/>I have a complete building jig available free to any
<br/>one interested. Collection from South Devon.
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-566Beaching Morbic 122023-11-27T06:10:27Z2023-11-27T06:10:27ZAlison
I would welcome any comments on the manoeuvrability of a Morbic 12 in the absence of a trailer or launching trolley including the possibility of hauling a Morbic 12 from the water onto a beach.
<br/>I am seriously considering a Morbic 12 build but wondering whether, at 100 + Kg, it would be too heavy for our purposes. (We are a couple; average strength).
<br/>Also, if anyone has any reflections regarding what a potential Morbic builder / owner should be aware of before committing they would be very much appreciated too.
<br/>Thank you
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-562Sleeping aboard??2023-11-16T04:56:54Z2023-11-16T04:56:54ZDaryl Foster
Have any of you intrepid morbic owners slept aboard? and if so how did it work out? I have yet to build mine having sat on the plans for about ten months (I bought a CLC Skerry that became available locally so the Morbic went on the back burner) Now though considering it again, but I feel being able to camp aboard is probably going to be one of my must haves so trying to decide whether I should go bigger ie Ilur, be interested to hear any views on whether sleeping aboard a morbic is a (albeit uncomfortable) possibility.
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-557Morbic 12 boats - For Sale &/or Wanted.2023-09-23T01:08:26Z2023-09-23T01:08:26ZPaulW
This section is only for Selling and Buying MORBIC-12 BOATS.
<br/>Components, materials, chandlery, sails, trailers, tools, etc. are in another topic.
<br/><br/>Most Morbic owners fall in love with them forever, so they rarely come on the market.
<br/>One UK Morbic changed hands in 2021 due to the owner's retirement/house move, so you might be lucky.
<br/><br/>No Commercial ads please.
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-550A Morbic in Wales2023-09-03T00:47:06Z2023-09-03T00:47:06ZPaulbrooks
At long last I launched my Morbic - Half Moon
<br/>Very little wind but we glided along quite nicely!
<br/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n550/IMG_4113.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n550/IMG_4114.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n550/IMG_3854.jpeg" border="0"/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-448A morbic 12 in the bay of biscay2023-02-12T08:28:28Z2023-02-12T08:28:28Zmagaliatres
Just an update on the boat construction. So far the hull is glued, just in need of some external fairing and epoxy sealing of plywood edges. As a newbie i have a lerning process that almost complete when glueing the last strake. I think I will have to build another boat, now that I know how to do it… tempting.
<br/><br/>I also worked on the rudder, tiller, centerboard and centerboard case. As I don’t like the idea of buying a expensive 14 mm brass rod to use just a 4 cm for the centerboard pivot, I made a 10 mm wooden rod and wrapped in glass fiber and epoxy. I’m not sure how will it work.
<br/><br/>For the rudder I also took a different approach from the project: i will make the rudder case fixed, permanently glued, and have a bronze bolt as a pivot. I will use the same wooden rod with fiberglass and epoxy, but drilled inside, to leave only the fg skin, to act as a sleeve inside to adsorb the compression from the bolt, thus enabling the rudder blade to pívot freely. I also routed a channel under the tiller space to get the rope to lift the rudder blade inside the boat. Also did a fancy head for the tiller.
<br/><br/>All in all… enjoying the build!!
<br/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n448/C1942590-D91C-4EFD-B61A-012B843E0EF2.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n448/884B9438-61FA-4F95-A4CE-9204B422AF88.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n448/9F50C583-F572-4A5B-8307-3F5A76646F9F.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n448/A1805A0D-7078-40E1-A897-E4F07FD241B0.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n448/E5AB821A-E3A3-4EBF-9B19-BA09513E0E46.jpeg" border="0"/><br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-539Epoxy Impregnation When to do it and when not?2023-08-21T08:04:29Z2023-08-21T08:04:29Zpampero
In Sheet 05 François Vivier explains that Impregnation it's highly recommended: For all parts of plywood, particularly "okoume,"...
<br/>Q1: Should we impregnate everything including the Strakes?
<br/>Q2: How many hands do we give them?
<br/>Q3 Sanding between hands, Can be avoided?
<br/>Q4: If we impregnate the strakes, do we run the risk of having a deficient two-step bonding?
<br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-518Ballast?2023-07-26T19:45:32Z2023-07-26T19:45:32ZNigel McC
Does anyone use ballast. I know some of the Oughtred designs use up to 50 kg for single handed sailing, and some Ilur skippers use 30- 50 kg.
<br/>(We might even get a sail this weekend (29/7), forecast is for 5-15 knots instead of the usual zero or gale force.)
<br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-522Anchors2023-07-31T10:48:39Z2023-07-31T10:48:39ZPeter Taylor
I've been looking at my anchor for 'Aura' and thinking I need to improve upon the paltry 0.75 kg grapnel that I have (hardly an anchor at all). What do other members have and how do they store them in the boat ready for use? Also thoughts on warp and chain length also welcomed. Many thanks, Peter.
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-468Mast weight2023-04-16T15:19:00Z2023-04-16T15:19:00ZHugh from NZ
Hi.
<br/>Could builders please tell me what their masts weigh and what wood species was used for their mast?
<br/>Cheers Hugh
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-414Notes on a Morbic Build in New Zealand.2022-10-28T12:04:45Z2022-10-28T12:04:45ZNigel McC
I began building the Morbic in mid-July. I decided to complete the spars, centreboard, rudder and stock, before starting work on the hull. In my previous builds, mostly Oughtred designs, I have completed the hull, then discovered I have another month or so of work before I can go sailing.
<br/>So I made bird’s mouth spars from imported Douglas Fir. The timber was disappointing, developing splits and gaps within the glue up. Use the <a href="http://duckworksmagazine.com/10/howto/birdsmouth/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Duckworks calculator </a>to caculate the dimensions of the spar strips.
<br/>It took about 30 hours to complete the boom, yard and mast. Out of interest, I glued the boom and yard using polyurethene glue, and the mast with epoxy. I wouldn’t use polyurethene again … messy, not much quicker than epoxy, and goes off quickly
<br/>I assembled the mast in two halves, so that I could add plugs and shape the slot for the halyard sheave. The plugs seal the middle of the mast, adding floatation.
<br/>In mid September, a friend who has a second-hand CNC cutter, cut the planks and girder from Vivier’s files.
<br/>These are excellent. The girder and planks fit together in most cases within + 2 mm and the time saving is huge. Strongly recommended.
<br/>The rudder and centreboard case took about 20 hours.
<br/>I use Titebond III to glue flat surfaces, such as doublers for centreboard and transom. It’s quick and easy to clean up. There is an old study from the US Forest Service that reports Polyamide glues are equally water resistant to epoxy. However, amide glues have poor gap filling properties so can only be used for well matched surfaces.
<br/>I laminated the false stem from Ash, two to three 3 mm layers at a time, and glued with Titebond III much easier than with epoxy.
<br/>I assembled the girder and molds at the beginning of October. Again, the Vivier CNC files are fantastic. The transom, longitudinal bulkheads went together in half an hour. I finished planking by 25 October. The only difficulty was, as usual, bending the the garboards into place, and cutting the gains to the stem. I’ve glued the planks with West System 105 + slow hardener.
<br/>Time spent to date, about 120 hours, including a round trip to Auckland to collect timber.
<br/><br/><b>Notes:</b><br/>1. Don’t use Polyurethene glue. Use Titebond III for well jointed surfaces, and epoxy when gap filling or filleting.
<br/>2. I lined the inside of the rudder stock with fibreglass to resist abrasion; that decreased the gap between the cheeks and the rudder cap no longer fitted. I’ve had to cut the cap in two and add a further layer of 2 mm ply to accommodate the rudder.
<br/>3. I cut additional clamping holes in the centre stem-leaf because I don’t have enough long clamps to laminate the false stem
<br/>4. Cut the holes for inspection ports in the longitudinal bulkheads in advance … it will be difficult when the bulkheads are glued in place. I made a circular cutting compass to mark the circle, and prevent chipping prior to cutting out the ply with a jig saw.
<br/>5. I’ve drilled through the stem and false stem to allow me to fit an eye, for towing, trailer security or a bowsprit.
<br/><b>Blunders</b>:
<br/>1. I glued both halves of the centreboard case together, had to start again
<br/>2. I made an incorrect mix of resin for the final coat whilst fibreglassing sole and garboard; patches didn’t cure. I scraped the off the uncured resin by wire brushing in acetone and cabinet scraper. Fortunately, the underlying coats cured.
<br/>3. I ordered Meranti ply during Covid lockdown from a local supplier. When I collected the sheets, I inspected the top two, but didn’t look close enough. The sheets were inconsistent, of poor quality. Moreover, and three-ply. Whilst I don’t think it will make a huge difference in the long term, three-ply is not nearly as strong as five, the face veneers are inconsistent, and there will be significant extra work in finishing and reinforcing the planks. I should have waited and paid the extra for five ply.
<br/>4. I’ve never been able to cut accurate gains in thin 6 mm planks. I shall reinforce inside the bow compartment with 100 gm tape.
<br/><br/>So here we are, hull complete, waiting ready for turn over:)
<br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n414/Morbic_planked.jpg" border="0"/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-485Assistance with steaming stem wood.2023-05-12T08:15:15Z2023-05-12T08:15:15ZMark Smithwick
Does anyone have a steaming facility I could use or borrow
<br/>to bend strips of sapele for making the stem?
<br/>I live in Havant, Hants.
<br/>Thanks,
<br/>Mark.
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-455Footrests2023-03-13T11:25:29Z2023-03-13T11:25:29Zsinfronteras
After shamefully exploiting all the wonderful ideas I've found on this forum and asking probably the dumbest of questions, I finally came up with something original, or at least I haven't seen it anywhere else before.
<br/><br/>I wasn't very fond on the footrest design, having visions of my not-so-stable parents stumbling and falling overboard, slight nightmares about another six or so holes in the bottom, or having to decide if I wanted to paint them of leave them as brightwork.
<br/><br/>So I came up with the following idea, to place a footrest "rod" between two "heads". The bottom part is skewed to accomodate the angle betwee garboard and bulkhead and the outside face tapered to make the inside faces parallel to each other. It's still a work in progress, but the idea is probably clear now...
<br/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n455/20230313_190424.jpg" border="0" style="display: block; margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;"/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n455/20230313_190407.jpg" border="0" style="display: block; margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;"/><br/><br/>Looking forward to your comments!
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-450Trailer setup and dimensions2023-02-15T23:41:03Z2023-02-15T23:41:03ZNigel McC
Now that the hull is complete, I'll need some way of launching. In NZ, boats are usually launched directly from a road trailer, where the trailer is partially immersed in the tide prior to launch.
<br/>I note from Proteus and Swefn pictures that you use a launching trolley, hitched to a road trailer for transport.
<br/>I think I might try and copy that idea. Three questions,
<br/>1. What is the width between the mudguards of the road trailer to provide clearance to the hull. I have a central frame trailer with 1.3 metres ... which I reckon should be sufficient.
<br/>2. Where is the load fulcrum, that is, where should the fulcum be relative to the length of the boat. I calculate it should be reasonably balanced if the pivot point is just forward of the skeg, so there is a downward load to the towing ball of 20 kg or so, ex the trailer beam, which will be another 10 kg.
<br/>3. that leaves about 1.3 metres of overhang from the stern to the transom, which is not directly supported by the trailer. Does this cause any problems? I've always assumed that there should be a support close to the transom when trailing
<br/>Regards
<br/>Nigel
<br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-439Build from plan? Templates?2023-01-24T12:00:03Z2023-01-24T12:00:03ZDaryl Foster
Hello all, I am just starting my Morbic build journey, I have the plans and am considering whether to build from the plans or get a kit.
<br/>I would be interested in hearing from any off plan builders whether you also got the full size templates, and if they were good to use, or whether you just took the dimensions from the plans, and how that worked out for you.
<br/>all the best, Daryl
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-428Why mask the gluing surfaces?2022-12-12T13:30:48Z2022-12-12T13:30:48Zsinfronteras
Most builders I've studied seem to mask the gluing surfaces while sheating/impregnating. I've tried to find a reference in François' instructions and Ian Oughtred's book, but I haven't found any.
<br/><br/>AFAIK, epoxy is supposed to bind very well on both well cured and 90% cured surfaces, as long as they're amine free and/or lightly sanded.
<br/><br/>Then, why would you want to mask the gluing surfaces? Isn't the risk of skipping an area (for example in the buoyancy compartments) greater than the possible advantage of slightly better binding?
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-424Dual rig2022-12-06T03:46:08Z2022-12-06T03:46:08Zsinfronteras
After more than a year of stand-still, I'm resuming the build of my Morbic. I've chosen the sloop version, as I find it infinitely more attractive, but I'm an (very) inexperienced sailor. And I'd like to be able to take her out on my own as well...
<br/><br/>I'm about to turn the boat for the first time so it's time to work on the innards. Could anyone who has built a Morbic with a 'dual rig' option post some pictures of the mast steps and the fore deck. If you happen to have any pictures of the mast steps during construction, or the inside of the deck, that would be highly appreciated as well.
<br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-399Towing eye2022-09-27T16:01:44Z2022-09-27T16:01:44ZNigel McC
Has anyone added a towing eye to the stem? I may tow the completed dinghy behind a larger yacht, I am reluctant to tow from an eye fixed transversely through the stem or the false stem, as the intermittent shock load would likely delaminate the timbers. I can see that a transverse fixing would suffice for a bowsprit brace.
<br/>Nigel McC
<br/>Hamilton
<br/>New Zealand
<br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-72Trailer security - Locks2021-02-01T02:15:24Z2022-02-16T15:28:48ZPaulW
<b>Trailer users - Please Advise.</b><br/><br/>How to secure a boat trailer against theft?
<br/>(a) when parked on its own,
<br/>(b) when on the tow-ball.
<br/>What experience, good or bad, do you have of different locks/systems?
<br/>What do you recommend or advise against?
<br/><br/>Thanks.
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-406Metal bits for Morbics2022-10-06T14:21:23Z2022-10-06T14:21:23Zmagaliatres
Hi everyone,
<br/>In the process of gathering all materials, tools and pieces required fot the build I’m having a difficult time buying the “metal” parts: rudder fittings, mast traveller, rowlocks and keelband. Classic Marine seems a good source for that, but Vivier specifies series 1 pintles and series 2 gudgeons, is that correct? Shouldn’t be one pintle longer than the other? CM is the only supplier I have found that offers bronze keelband, but sadly they don’t ship keel bands. Brexit regulations make me suspect of unexpected difficulties, taxes, etc.
<br/><br/>I have also checked A’l Abordage web page and TOPLITCH.de which both have similar products but the rudder fittings look smaller, not what FV specifies in his project.
<br/><br/>For those of you who have already gone through the process: could you please tell me what did you bought, and where? Are you satisfied about it, or would you make it differently if you were going to do it again? Of course you are in the UK, and CM is also there which makes it much easier, but if you don’t mind I would like to know your thinking about this.
<br/><br/>Thanks for your advice.
<br/><br/>Best regards,
<br/>Carlos Herrán
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-389Thames Raid2022-06-21T12:49:04Z2022-06-21T12:49:04ZPortnastorm
Hi folks.
I thought you might be interested in something a little bit different.
I've just finished rowing Sistership down the Upper Thames from Lechlade to Reading. As members of HBBR we have been doing this and similar trips for well over 10 years, although coming back after the pandemic we chose to keep this a low key affair.
I borrowed a pair of 9ft oars which although a bit heavy were much more powerful than my 7ft pair which I kept for inside the locks.
Sailing on this part of the river never seems to work out so it was rowing all the way. The blisters should heal up in a few days.
<img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n389/IMG_0787.jpeg" border="0"/>
<img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n389/20220612_124944.jpg" border="0"/>
More photos on my blog. Link below.
Best Regards Graham
<div class="signature weak-color">
Graham Neil
https://port-na-storm.blogspot.com/
</div>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-382Fitting the garboard2022-06-09T07:56:23Z2022-06-09T07:56:23ZMark Smithwick
I'm fitting the garboard to my new build. How do I bend
<br/>the foreward end of this plank sufficiently so that it makes
<br/>contact with the stem? If I bend it any further it will surely
<br/>snap!
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-371New sailing season2022-03-26T13:54:14Z2022-03-26T13:54:14ZMarc Lien
Hi -
<br/><br/>I had a glorious day launching Highcroft for the first time this season and going for a couple of hours sail in Secret Water territory on the East Coast - Walton-on-the-Naze. It was such a joy to be back on the water. Also nice to get back in the swing of things and for the Morbic 12 to see in a second season.
<br/>Nearly ran out of water on the way back and getting the boat out on slimy slipway took nearly as long as the sail!
<br/><br/>Anyway - wishing you all a fun season building and sailing FV’s fantastic little ships. Where are you all sailing?
<br/><br/>Marc
<br/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n371/9FF47802-A17C-44A9-BAE5-CE00525BCCB6.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n371/CFEAAA0B-EA28-4319-8D6B-E14266CCE563.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n371/EB52D3D0-0337-4EFC-8332-61468B88C6F9.jpeg" border="0"/><br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-370Boom Tent - Materials - Construction2022-02-25T10:01:52Z2022-02-25T10:01:52ZPaulW
What experience, good or bad, do folks have of different boom tent materials.
<br/>Any constructional dos and don'ts could also be useful.
<br/>(I've seen the Roger Barnes video on the topic which has some useful tips but I'll not be going for the material he chose.)
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-358For Sale / Wanted - Dinghy bits2022-02-12T13:20:31Z2022-02-18T10:04:55ZPaulW
<b>For Sale - Dinghy bits - Components, materials, chandlery, sails, trailers, tools, etc.</b><br/>Commercial ads not permissible.
<br/>(Whole Morbic-12's for sale <a href="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/For-Sale-Morbic-12-td315.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">come under another topic</a>.)
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-135Eye bolt2021-03-21T04:09:45Z2021-03-21T04:09:45ZMarc Lien
Hi all,
<br/><br/>Do you have any trouble launching or recovering your Morbic 12 singlehanded?
<br/><br/>I’m looking at a combi-trailer, but wondering whether it would be helpful to install an eye-bolt in the false-stem near the waterline to ease getting the boat on and off. Or alternatively, like with the Ilur, a transversal hole through the false stem for a strap.
<br/><br/>But... given not in the plans, maybe not required?
<br/><br/>Here is a picture that was shared with me that illustrates the eye-bolt. Perhaps requiring a plywood doubler or something to spread the load as well...
<br/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n135/EE92BAEA-7EA3-4EE3-A7AB-D3773C8436EE.jpeg" border="0"/><br/><br/>Thanks,
<br/>Marc
<br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-25Sails, trailer and cover2020-12-30T01:42:21Z2020-12-30T01:42:21ZMarc Lien
Hi all,
<br/><br/>Seasons greetings.
<br/><br/>I don’t yet have a boat shaped thing but am making progress on the spars during the UK cold snap.
<br/>I’m trying to get ahead a bit to avoid delays later. Can anyone advise on:
<br/><br/>1. Where to commission and purchase sails from? I am going for the balanced lug rig and am defaulting to cross-cut and battened. If you chose vertical cut and no battens I’d be interested in what drove your choice.
<br/><br/>2. Where to buy a trailer from? I know little about trailers but think the combi-trailer might be best so I can launch the boat at my local reservoir and then also tow her on some longer trips.
<br/><br/>3. Where to have a boat cover made? She will be kept outside all year at the reservoir dinghy park. Need space in the garage for whatever project comes next ;)
<br/><br/>Many thanks for your time and thoughts. Excited about the chance to meet up in due course.
<br/><br/>Best,
<br/>Marc
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-335Sailing Downwind - Try this? Opinions?2021-09-28T06:02:15Z2021-09-28T06:02:15ZPaulW
Running dead downwind can lead to "death roll", especially with our boats.
<br/>Tacking downwind:-
<br/> a) is safer and more stable,
<br/> b) you probably arrive sooner.
<br/><a href="https://www.sailingworld.com/story/how-to/how-to-find-your-best-downwind-vmg-angle/" target = blank rel="nofollow" link="external">This method</a> (easy if there is a steady wind) deprecates the G&T approach. You'll need to conduct a few simple tests and calculations to determine the optimum angle for your craft.
<br/>Try it?
<br/>Opinions?
<br/>PW
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-328Morbic Meet October 20212021-09-03T05:50:50Z2021-12-14T03:29:26ZPaulW
UPDATE - November 2021.
<br/>October was postponed due to gales.
<br/>To keep the concept alive, I see ways forward for 2022.
<br/>See the <a href="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/Return-to-Cobnor-td312.html" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">Members-Only section</a>.
<br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-228Mainsheet setup2021-06-01T14:14:39Z2021-06-01T14:14:39ZMarc Lien
Hi all,
<br/><br/>Am starting to ponder rigging.
<br/><br/>I’ve gone the balanced lug route, and will be sailing mostly single handed. Gentle sailing, sometimes with kids, not racing. I’m ok to go with modern equipment (warps, fiddle blocks etc)
<br/><br/>For the mainsheet, I’ve spotted four approaches I think in other posts:
<br/>A sheet at end of boom, transverse rope traveller over tiller, helmsman holding sheet behind him/her
<br/>B same as A but sheet led forward along boom via a couple of blocks to centreboard case and helm sheeting from ahead
<br/>C sheet from centreboard case up to two separate mid-boom attached blocks - per diagrams in Vivier plans
<br/>D sheet from centreboard case via modern Harken or similar 4:1 compound fiddle tackle. (Although small boat in the description is still 2x length of a Morbic) <a href="https://www.harken.com/en/support/selection-tools/system-diagrams/mainsheet-systems/" target="_top" rel="nofollow" link="external">https://www.harken.com/en/support/selection-tools/system-diagrams/mainsheet-systems/</a><br/><br/>Have I got this right? What would you recommend given my setup? Do you have any specific product recommendations - I need to buy as have nothing on hand.
<br/><br/>Thank you.
<br/><br/>Marc
<br/><br/><br/>
tag:forum.mymorbic.uk,2006:post-284Motor mount2021-07-27T14:29:49Z2021-07-27T14:29:49ZMarc Lien
Hello, me again!
<br/><br/>So I’ve got myself a little electric trolling motor, largely for emergency/auxiliary power in case my rowing fails me or to get out of a fix when out with the kids exploring.
<br/><br/>New to this business, I’d appreciate any advice regarding mounting the motor on the transom.
<br/><br/>I was planning on placing off centre on starboard side so I could sail with motor raised and could drop quickly. My centre sheet setup is from centreboard case rather than rear traveller arrangement so no snagging challenges.
<br/><br/>The motor mount comes with quick adjust ‘screws’ to secure the motor to the transom. The issue is that the Morbic transom is too thin for these screws. Am I ok just to use a 18mm pad of plywood on the inside of the transom and then tighten the screws against this? Or do I need to bolt this pad through the transom which I’d really rather avoid? The motor is not very powerful - i guess <1HP - so not sure how important bolting the pad really is?
<br/><br/>Thanks for your thoughts and any other ideas
<br/><br/>Best,
<br/>Marc
<br/><br/><img src="https://forum.mymorbic.uk/file/n284/A08A741B-B730-4FD3-8EC5-0A119200222B.jpeg" border="0"/><br/>